Thomas ducks into a hair salon to ask. I stand outside with our bikes, looking around to see if, by some chance, we've simply missed the sign. It doesn't take too long though before he is back out on the curb with a stylist. She's pointing, but her German is too fast for me to follow. I catch "across the street" and "first floor." And, really, that's enough.
As it turns out, there is no sign to miss. Just a simple buzzer among many. Very discreet.
Münzsalon.
We are buzzed into the ground floor. I am immediately impressed by the grandeur of the building. The carvings along the ceiling are ornate enough to be readily distinguished from the regulation style buildings typical of post-World War II Berlin. And the dark wood of the banister – smooth as silk under my stroking fingers – is, I think, rich enough to smell.
We climb to the first floor and our door. It is broad, thick and, like the buzzer downstairs, unmarked. Thomas fumbles a bit with the knob. Locked. But it’s the signal, I suppose, that the attendants are waiting for.
The door swings open to a crowded, narrow fork in the hall, spreading left and right like wide open arms.
One of the attendants ushers us in. The other shuffles a list at a softly lit hostess stand.
Name?
Thomas is taken aback. I take a guess that this is the first he's heard of the need for a reservation.
There's a guest list?
So much for the reading.
But whether it’s the clutch of people all pressing into the door with their ready names, the others who are busily shedding their jackets to get out of the way or my crestfallen look, the attendant decides to ignore our oversight and waves us on.
The interior of the Münzsalon is as impressive as the ground floor entry, with expansive floors and high ceilings throughout. But the rooms are studies in alternate periods of interior design.
One room has the feel of a 1950s library on a Hollywood set. It's all dark wood and leather furniture. Guests lounging in their easy, relaxed poses. Cigarettes between practiced fingers and lips.
The main room, in contrast, is chic in a modernistic style. Low black furniture, long and sleek without ornamentation. The ceiling lights neither draping chandeliers nor recessed sockets but bold, black fabric rings with radiating metal spokes.
Throughout is the clatter of plates, the tinkle of glass and the low voices of guests taking their seats.
Thomas and I, our beer and wine in hand, settle back against our comfortably soft, black booth at the front of the room. Three others – two young women and a man – squeeze in on our right. The reader takes her place in a booth just to our left. She has a small reading lamp, a glass of water and a large printout of her script.
In short order, the mistress of ceremonies comes forward to introduce the reader, the author and the night's events. It is all in German, so I strain to understand. The night's reading will be the German translation of "Apfel, Huhn und Puschkin" by the Russian author, Julia Belomlinskaja. The reading will be augmented by a soundtrack as well as images played against the wall behind the reader. Afterwards, the author herself will sing some Russian folk songs to us.
I think that is what she said.
Our mistress is seated for no more than a brief moment before the author rises to address the crowd. She knows very little German, so speaks to us in a broken and heavily-accented English.
I, of course, understand every word she says. More so than I did the far more eloquently delivered German introduction. And I understand more than enough to convey to Thomas – with certainty but in, no doubt, my broken and heavily-accented German – that the woman is frankly zany.
Her "verrückt-ness" is an asset to the book. I lose myself in both the reader's evocative delivery and in the story itself, of a Saint Petersburg woman who has immigrated to good ol' New York, New York.
And we are a part of it.
Of the gossipy neighborhood girlfriends. Of the crowded skyline. Of the musicians playing their souls out on the streets.
The reader shuts off her light to let the music of the scene play. There is an abstract sax player on the screen and he is covering Louis Armstrong's What a Wonderful World.
The reader drops a coin into a theatre-prop cup. Clink! The author then leaps up and makes a grand show of putting in a dollar.
Thomas laces his fingers in mine.
Wednesday, March 21, 2007
Thursday, March 15, 2007
Red Sweater Days
March 3
Jessica swears that Julian and I were salivating, and she was disgusted. Less because of our drooling (we were not!) but because the object of our attention was wearing unattractive baggy rolled up jeans with that oh-so-flattering red sweater. I mean, how COULD we ignore the jeans?
I had never heard of Au Revoir Simone before, this girlband out of Brooklyn, New York with their three keyboards, flower-power long hair and what Julian describes as their "soft-focus" sound. But Jessica and I have been out to quite a few music events in just the past couple of months, and I've come to trust Julian's music taste (and those of his friends, by extension).
So off to Bastard we go.
Bastard is a tight little club space in Prenzlauer Berg, on the hip Kastanienallee and next to the equally well-known Prater Garten.
At least, it is well known to some. When Ingo suggests we meet there just the night before, I sound like a hick with my "where's THAT?" cluelessness.
It turns out that I had been there once before for a drum-n-bass dance night with my coworkers. Um, I will censor out the events of that evening to protect the not-so-innocent. Let me just leave it with "good times were had by all."
Bastard had a nice little club feel when I was there then. But tonight, it is packed wall-to-wall with people out to hear Au Revoir Simone. Maybe some were also there for the opening act: a too-cool-for-school Berlin group called I Might Be Wrong. Baggier jeans, Beatles-style hair cuts and a singer who refuses (simply REFUSES) to smile. (She read somewhere that smiling is NEVER cool.)
The babes of Simone must have skipped that lesson. Thank god. And Ms. Red Sweater doesn't just smile.
She beams.
Drooling or not, Julian and I enjoy every minute of the spring-day-and-bubble-gum sound of our winsome threesome. It is not that all the songs are light-hearted. The song they dedicate to their "best friend in Berlin" is about a breakup.
They apologize for that, which makes me laugh.
Jessica rolls her eyes.
---
March 14
Jessica is teaching an English class tonight, so it is just Julian and me at the Lido for Console. Neither of us had been to the Lido before, but it is just one block from my favorite Italian restaurant on Schlesisches Strasse and, after dinner, Martin walks us there.
I have walked past this place a hundred times and not seen it, I exclaim.
Well, they are not always open, Martin coolly replies.
The Lido is not Bastard, thank goodness. Although brimming with people, there is still room to breath. (And, later, I'll find, to twist and shout.) While not exactly cavernous, the room's high ceilings suggest an almost dreamy vastness.
When Console starts, that's what I do. I close my eyes. Dream. I imagine then that I will open my eyes to a room emptied of people. Ok, maybe a sole bartender remains. And the heat of all those bodies still radiate. But the flesh -- of guests, band, and even Julian -- is swept away like so many sand castles on the shore.
It is just me, the vastness and the gentle pull of the music.
It helps that Console leads with a couple of tracks that are heady like that. But they don't stay there. I am back in the filled hall, Julian is near, and the music is throb throb throbbing. A few people hold out-- stare at the stage, listen intently, drink their beers.
But the rest of us are caught in the flow. A turning, dipping, whirling mess of our sweat and cries.
What joy this!
And I know it. Just know it.
The walls are pulsing.
Jessica swears that Julian and I were salivating, and she was disgusted. Less because of our drooling (we were not!) but because the object of our attention was wearing unattractive baggy rolled up jeans with that oh-so-flattering red sweater. I mean, how COULD we ignore the jeans?
I had never heard of Au Revoir Simone before, this girlband out of Brooklyn, New York with their three keyboards, flower-power long hair and what Julian describes as their "soft-focus" sound. But Jessica and I have been out to quite a few music events in just the past couple of months, and I've come to trust Julian's music taste (and those of his friends, by extension).
So off to Bastard we go.
Bastard is a tight little club space in Prenzlauer Berg, on the hip Kastanienallee and next to the equally well-known Prater Garten.
At least, it is well known to some. When Ingo suggests we meet there just the night before, I sound like a hick with my "where's THAT?" cluelessness.
It turns out that I had been there once before for a drum-n-bass dance night with my coworkers. Um, I will censor out the events of that evening to protect the not-so-innocent. Let me just leave it with "good times were had by all."
Bastard had a nice little club feel when I was there then. But tonight, it is packed wall-to-wall with people out to hear Au Revoir Simone. Maybe some were also there for the opening act: a too-cool-for-school Berlin group called I Might Be Wrong. Baggier jeans, Beatles-style hair cuts and a singer who refuses (simply REFUSES) to smile. (She read somewhere that smiling is NEVER cool.)
The babes of Simone must have skipped that lesson. Thank god. And Ms. Red Sweater doesn't just smile.
She beams.
Drooling or not, Julian and I enjoy every minute of the spring-day-and-bubble-gum sound of our winsome threesome. It is not that all the songs are light-hearted. The song they dedicate to their "best friend in Berlin" is about a breakup.
They apologize for that, which makes me laugh.
Jessica rolls her eyes.
---
March 14
Jessica is teaching an English class tonight, so it is just Julian and me at the Lido for Console. Neither of us had been to the Lido before, but it is just one block from my favorite Italian restaurant on Schlesisches Strasse and, after dinner, Martin walks us there.
I have walked past this place a hundred times and not seen it, I exclaim.
Well, they are not always open, Martin coolly replies.
The Lido is not Bastard, thank goodness. Although brimming with people, there is still room to breath. (And, later, I'll find, to twist and shout.) While not exactly cavernous, the room's high ceilings suggest an almost dreamy vastness.
When Console starts, that's what I do. I close my eyes. Dream. I imagine then that I will open my eyes to a room emptied of people. Ok, maybe a sole bartender remains. And the heat of all those bodies still radiate. But the flesh -- of guests, band, and even Julian -- is swept away like so many sand castles on the shore.
It is just me, the vastness and the gentle pull of the music.
It helps that Console leads with a couple of tracks that are heady like that. But they don't stay there. I am back in the filled hall, Julian is near, and the music is throb throb throbbing. A few people hold out-- stare at the stage, listen intently, drink their beers.
But the rest of us are caught in the flow. A turning, dipping, whirling mess of our sweat and cries.
What joy this!
And I know it. Just know it.
The walls are pulsing.
Thursday, March 08, 2007
This is my prayer.
The Kit Kat Club is having their 13th anniversary celebration this coming Saturday. If it is at all like the Hustler Ball event that I attended during Richard's visit, it should be FANTASTIC.
(Oh Niels, will I ever say that word again without hearing YOU say it?)
Speaking of which, Rob P. says that he will come along on Saturday and sent this FANTASTIC poem by Ruth L. Schwartz with his reply. My pleasure to share it with you.
Oh God, Fuck me
by Ruth L. Schwartz
Fuck me, oh god, with ordinary things
the things you love best in the world -
like trees in spring, exposing themselves,
flashing leaf buds so firm and swollen
I want to take them in my mouth.
Speaking of trees, fuck me with birds
say, an enormous raucous crow,
proud as a man with his hands down his pants,
and then a sparrow, intimately brown,
discreet and cautious as a concubine.
Fuck me with my kitchen faucet, dripping
like a nymphomaniac,
all night slowly filling and filling,
then overflowing the bowls in the sink
and with the downstairs neighbour's vacuum,
that great sucking noisy dragon
making the dirty come clean.
Fuck me with breakfast, with English muffins
the spirit of the dough aroused
by browning, thrilled by buttering
Fuck me with orange juice,
its concentrated sweetness,
which makes the mouth as happy as summer
leaves sweet flecks of foam like spit
along the inside of the glass.
Fuck me with coffee, strong and hot,
and then with cream poured into coffee
blossoming like mushroom clouds,
opening like parachutes.
Fuck me with the ticking
clock, which is the ticking
bomb, which is the ticking heart -
the heart we heard in the first months,
in the original nakedness,
before we were squalling and born.
Fuck me with the unwashed spoon
proud with its coffee stain -
the faint swirl of a useful life
pooled into its center, round as a world.
P.S. To a certain someone who is reading this blog: shhhhh... Your mouth is a tomb, remember? ;-)
(Oh Niels, will I ever say that word again without hearing YOU say it?)
Speaking of which, Rob P. says that he will come along on Saturday and sent this FANTASTIC poem by Ruth L. Schwartz with his reply. My pleasure to share it with you.
Oh God, Fuck me
by Ruth L. Schwartz
Fuck me, oh god, with ordinary things
the things you love best in the world -
like trees in spring, exposing themselves,
flashing leaf buds so firm and swollen
I want to take them in my mouth.
Speaking of trees, fuck me with birds
say, an enormous raucous crow,
proud as a man with his hands down his pants,
and then a sparrow, intimately brown,
discreet and cautious as a concubine.
Fuck me with my kitchen faucet, dripping
like a nymphomaniac,
all night slowly filling and filling,
then overflowing the bowls in the sink
and with the downstairs neighbour's vacuum,
that great sucking noisy dragon
making the dirty come clean.
Fuck me with breakfast, with English muffins
the spirit of the dough aroused
by browning, thrilled by buttering
Fuck me with orange juice,
its concentrated sweetness,
which makes the mouth as happy as summer
leaves sweet flecks of foam like spit
along the inside of the glass.
Fuck me with coffee, strong and hot,
and then with cream poured into coffee
blossoming like mushroom clouds,
opening like parachutes.
Fuck me with the ticking
clock, which is the ticking
bomb, which is the ticking heart -
the heart we heard in the first months,
in the original nakedness,
before we were squalling and born.
Fuck me with the unwashed spoon
proud with its coffee stain -
the faint swirl of a useful life
pooled into its center, round as a world.
P.S. To a certain someone who is reading this blog: shhhhh... Your mouth is a tomb, remember? ;-)
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